| An African Tale - By Geraldine Tuson |
16-12-2009 |
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I have been very lucky in my life to be able to visit many parts of the world, but until recently I had never been on an African Safari. I was invited to join a group of 8 other travel agents to experience what Somak offers to our clients. We all met at Heathrow airport and after the initial awkwardness, began to get along. I knew almost immediately it was going to be a great trip.
We were all excited to be travelling to Africa, for some a whole new world, and for others a return to well loved places. We were really fortunate with our group, everyone got along very well and shared knowledge and experiences, led my Amanda from Somak, who was the perfect travelling companion and leader of our tour. Our itinerary was very full, at first reading it seemed quite ambitious and it would need everyone cooperating fully to cover vast distances to be able to visit all the things Somak had planned for us.
We had a pleasant flight with Kenya Airways, the cabin crew were really lovely, full of smiles and very attentive. After 12 hours flying it was good to clear customs and be greeted by Somak staff who whisked away through the teaming traffic in Nairobi to have a freshen up and a delicious breakfast at the Somak Lounge. This is a really welcome facility that all Somak guests can use, Good powerful showers, comfortable sofas and well prepared food will set you up for the rest of the day, and make you feel human again! We were introduced to our drivers and saw our land rovers. We would cover many miles together. I can honestly say that meeting our guide Evans, was like meeting a new friend, who could not wait to show us the wonders of his country. I think we would all agree the driver-guides are what make or break a trip like this, and both groups agreed that our guides were the best. Please don’t think I am in the habit of going around addressing people by their surnames, Evans simply liked to be Evans! We speedily exited Nairobi, which like many big cities was noisy and full of traffic, and soon we were entering the beautiful countryside edged by mountains.
One of the real highlights for me was Helen one of our travelling companies who had grown up in Kenya, and to see all the memories come flooding back was very special. She and Evans struck up a relationship that was great to see and I think we learnt so much more because of this. It even allowed some of the others to catch a quick bit of shuteye on the long journey (not mentioning any names). I stayed awake just enjoying the scenery that gets better and better as the miles fly by. The roads were good and we were very lucky to have excellent weather. Before arriving I had had visions of being sent out with a shovel to dig the 4 x 4 out of mud, but we were fine. Our first stop was in one of the roadside shops, full of African crafts and nick nacks. Quite how the 6 foot wooden giraffe looks in Texas, is one of life’s mysteries, but at the time it was great fun watching the tourists bartering and bantering, arranging shipping, and in my minds eye I can imagine the rather large American, dressed in the becoming Masi outfit his wife purchased (his and hers), placing his giraffe in pride of place in his Texan home. A local man, who introduced himself as the Doctor; wearing a home made badge, and no shoes, asked us to come and witness a miracle! We were at the equator, and watched as he poured water from a plastic bottle into a very old bucket and then threw a match in, as it twirled in an anti clockwise motion, he then beckoned us to follow across the equator and performed the whole scientific experiment again for us to see the stick circling in a clockwise motion. He then proceeded to ask us for a large payment for which we would be given a hand made certificate (almost worth it for the uniqueness), we were able to resist, and a for a little tip, we were on our way leaving the friendly Doctor smiling and getting the next lot of pupils ready to see his experiment. Back into the land rover and after a short drive we approached the very beautiful Fairmount Mount Kenya Safari Club, sitting amidst the breathtaking landscape with the majestic Mount Kenya as a backdrop, it is quite simply wonderful. Set in 100 acres of landscaped gardens, the hotel offers over 120 rooms and suites all with en suites, and most with open fires that can be lit to cheer the colder Kenyan evenings.
All the rooms are beautifully appointed and there are further accommodations with The William Holden Cottages, which are ideal for families, having two bedrooms, private terraces and lawns. Leisure facilities include, heated pool, golf, even a maze! The Concierge is happy to arrange, many other activities, from walking, trekking fishing, to white water rafting. There are even two beautiful Fairmont black Labradors for you to fuss over, and take for walks, if you’re missing your four legged friends.
It would be a perfect setting for a wedding here, There is a small wooden chapel and the hotel would offer a really special day! One that would always be remembered. We were entertained and had lunch in the main restaurant, and I feel safe in recommending this to even the most discerning connoisseur would find it hard to fault. We were then greeted by local Tribes people who invited us out into the walled gardens, to take part in some traditional tribal dances – and guess who was called out first. Not known for my love of dancing, I was soon in to the swing of things, and I will sue anyone who prints the pictures! I was then invited to partake in a much slicker version of the Doctors experiment, and sure enough the water changed direction. Fortunately for me, it was the others turn to learn the dances, and I could relax whilst they all had performed, a sort of Strictly Come Dancing African style.
After completing the experiment we were all given very up market certificates – but somehow it lacked a little of the charm of the Doctors! All to soon it was time to leave our new friends and be on our way again. So we found ourselves driving towards Samburu, our home for the next two nights. We arrived at Buffalo Springs game reserve and we were all wide awake, Evans our driver immediately started to search the landscape and look for wild life, and we were not disappointed. After much excitement we arrived at Ashnil Samburu Camp. Set hugging the edge of the Ewaso Nyrio River, 24 twin/double bedded circular tents, but if like me you don’t do camping, do not judge! These may have canvas walls, but they are not like any tents I’ve ever been in with their polished hardwood floors, patio doors leading onto a veranda over looking the river, the perfect pitch to watch all of the animals arriving at the river. One elephant had taken up residence just outside my room. The units are beautifully appointed with luxury en suite bathrooms, top of the range showers, and products of the finest quality – in short after all our journeying, a real bit of heaven! All built round a beautiful swimming pool, just waiting to refresh you.
We spent two beautiful days at Samburu and I soon realized it was the setting for the BBC documentary that had followed the lives of the elephants. I was simply captivated, and the fun we had guessing which animals we would see when, was great. I actually found myself moved to tears by some of the animals that we were lucky enough to see, so closely that we could almost touch them; families of giraffes, lions with their cubs, a cheetah that we nearly ran over, herds of elephants, some even holding tails and trunks as they crossed the river. The wild life was amazing, a photographers dream.
We were so lucky with the amount of animals we saw, the food at Samburu Camp was wonderful and you could eat and drink while watching the animals at the river. We were lucky enough to visit a Samburu Tribal Village, There are two tribes living here Samburu and Turkana, they have decided to be semi permanent and invite guests to visit them in their camps. Women men and children excitedly met us, they could not wait to put piles upon piles of beads around our necks and once again the dancing started. They showed us their homes, their way of life, and they genuinely wanted us to learn what it is like to live in Africa. The huts are very small, and whilst I ventured into one, I was a little bit worried about getting stuck, a bit like Winnie the Pooh in his adventures. After safely exiting I just popped my head round the entrance of the others. The Chief and is his handsome little son, led us proudly around the village and told us of the many traditions that they follow, and the changes they are making. We spent far longer than we were meant to, but I would encourage anyone to add this into their itinerary as it was a fascinating experience. By the end of our visit I was weighed down by so many necklaces, I fear I may be betrothed!!
All to soon it was time to leave the magic of Samburu, and start the long journey back to Nairobi. It seemed amazing to be leaving the beautiful game drives, and I freely admit to tears as we left, an emotion shared by the others. The miles flew by and, as minutes became hours we eventually found ourselves back in the traffic of Nairobi, we saw more of the city this time, and once again went to freshen up in the Somak lounge. Then it was time to say goodbye to Evans and we checked for our short flight to Mombassa.
Arriving in Mombassa the streets were very busy, and the light was fading, We were travelling against time, Somak had wanted us to view a hotel on the way, but we had to get to the ferry crossing and after many miles we found ourselves in the Serena Beach and Spa Hotel on Shanzu Beach to the North of Mombassa. Serena Beach offers 164 air conditioned rooms all with en-suite bathroom patios or balconies. It is designed, as 12th century Swahili town would be, it has winding lanes, market squares and fountains. There is a choice of three restaurants, two bars. The hotel offers a host of activities, including swimming, gym. Squash mini golf, beach volleyball and water sports including scuba diving, snorkelling and sailing. There is a marvellously relaxing Elemis spa, to chill out in. The food was excellent, and the hotel is set along beautiful beaches. They even offer a complimentary shuttle to take you in to Mombassa town. We had a really good meal, and a comfortable nights sleep.We then had to move on to a couple of very busy days with several places to visit. We headed for the ferry and onto the south to Diani
TIJARA
If I was ever to write my book, or need to escape the madness of our world, then it is to Tijara I shall head. As you arrive into the beautiful 5 acres of landscaped gardens, and start to take in the amazing views over the ocean. It is simply stunning; there are four deceptively simple thatched cottages, which are beautifully decorated, in an understated way. The gardens lead to a beautiful pool, and a pathway to Tijara’s private beach. You can feel just how much this place has cost, both in money and human efforts. Part of me wants to keep it a secret, but you can tell that this is someone’s dream, and it deserves to be a huge success. The freedom that this place offers is wonderful and the staff want to help you to enjoy living there, but look after you in understated, non-pressurized way. The food is fantastic, and whilst this environment will not suit those wanting nightclubs, it will recharge your batteries and re-energize the people who need it. Sadly we left the calmness of Tijara and headed down towards Pinewood Village.
Pinewood Village
Another magical place! Now I am guilty of misjudging this property, in a day crammed with many hotel visits, I had decided that this was just a run of the mill place. As we entered, we became aware of a special atmosphere. We sat in the Lounge and met the Creator of Pinewood, and as he started to speak, again you became aware that this is a special man, who has created a place that is very special too. It is deceptively simple, the variety of suites and rooms, are plainly but attractively decorated and lend themselves to many different configurations. It is possible to have a butler here, not in the Jeeves sense, but someone to cook your meals in the private kitchen. As we went around the property, it became obvious that there was something very special here. The relationship with the staff was something else. They truly loved the owner, who has helped them through some very troubled times. You become aware of the harmony in the place. You feel looked after, but never stifled. On one wall, proudly displayed is an award from Trip advisor, which the owner has dedicated to all of his staff. The amenities are good. There is a lovely beach with a restaurant on it, and it was here that we joined the team for lunch, which was marvellous. The blend of people staying seemed to be old friends, and the atmosphere was really lovely. They can arrange weddings here, and you can tell they will be very well organized, and very special. If you choose to be married on the beach, they have put in a web cam so that all of your friends and family can join you for the big day. Equally important was the man, waiving away to the camera, who sent a little message to his 3-year-old son each day at 11o’clock. The Kuoni rep phoned whilst we were there, and asked the owner what did he do to his clients, as every time they arrived at the airport for their homeward journey, many of them were in tears! And it was because they were so sad to leave. This is not a grand five star property, but a really lovely comfortable 4 star one, that will give you a great holiday, especially if combined with a Safari. When you see a place like this, you know that there will be good times ahead. Its very, very special, set on the edge of the turquoise Indian Ocean with golden white sand, all kept in immaculate condition. It is a small boutique hotel, 25 miles south of Mombassa at Galu Beach. There are 58 air conditioned rooms and suites. Pinewood offers as much or as little as you want to do. There is a gym, swimming pool, and water sports, diving, deep sea fishing, catamaran sailing. It seems to cope with weddings, couples, honeymooners and families really well.
The Cove Retreat
What a beautiful setting, a perfect location for a dream wedding. The Cove Retreat has a group of tree houses, each one unique and spread out through the Africa Baoba Trees. They are situated in their own private cove. There are 6 tree houses (12 people). They have a 4-poster bed, which can be wheeled out by your personal butler to watch the beautiful African stars in the night-time, they have a Jacuzzi, mini bar, lounge and dining area. This is an all-inclusive hotel, and it is situated about 2 and half hours from the airport, and needs a short ferry transfer to get to the Cove. It is very much geared towards weddings and honeymoons. No children under the age of 18 are allowed to stay at the cove. The Almanar Resort is situated close to a really lovely Dani beach, with white powdery sands. This would be an ideal location for someone who wants privacy and seclusion. A selection villas set around a beautiful pool and set in landscaped gardens. Each Villa has its own maid and chef. There is a Bar-B-Q at the pool and a fabulous restaurant called Sails, which is tented to prevent the sun roasting you while you eat breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Msambweni Beach House and Private Villas
You get a glimpse of how wonderful this will become, it is still a little bit work in progress in places. The main house has lovely high ceiling, and is elegantly styled. There are three ensuite rooms with private verandas. An additional luxury tented room and two extra rooms on the second floor. The house offers a 25 meter infinity pool and a jetty that over looks the Indian Ocean. In addition there are two Lamu Villas, which have their own swimming pools, a private cook and waiter. These places are suitable for families. Dining at Mswambweni is special, we only tried a few little tempters, but you can easily imagine the main courses will be very special. The owners are keen to arrange meals anywhere; these could be taken under the African skies by candlelight. Although the property has stunning views, it can seem quite isolated; however there is an 18-hole golf course nearby, tennis and both scuba diving and deep-sea fishing can be arranged. You can also choose to have a massage or pamper session.
The Gazi Retreat – 3.5 stars
Our home for the next two nights, set in an out of the way location, as the darkness fell we wondered where we were going. We found ourselves in an enchanted camp set on the remote shores of Gazi Bay to the South of Mombassa. This is an eco retreat, and is a wonderful under canvas experience. The accommodation is in Bedouin tents all surrounded around the fresh water swimming pool. They all offer air conditioning and compromise 4 poster King size beds, large bathrooms, separate lounge overlooking the pool. Our hosts were charming and could not wait to invite us to join them to eat – the food was excellent, and the owners were keen to discuss and find ways to extend and improve their retreat. They are keen to build the wedding market, and I feel sure that they would give any wedding a special twist, a day to remember.The camp is close to dive site, deep sea and inshore fishing; sunset cruises and trips through the mangrove boardwalks. A bird- watchers paradise. It’s a really unusual little place, tucked away, but beautifully laid out. It was with great sadness that we had to head off and to get to our next Safari. We drove to Tsavo East National Park to Ashnil Aruba Lodge. A new camp, and another chance for us to do a couple of game drives. Things seemed a little more regimented here, not quite so special as Samburu. The roads seemed to be well laid out and used by many different people. There were many animals to see, although we did not seem to encounter them quite as closely as before. We still enjoyed the game drive. We were grateful to arrive at the lodge for a lunch in the buffet style restaurant. The viewing areas were great, and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves, very popular with families and people on day excursions. The accommodation was well placed and in excellent condition. There were lots of viewing platforms, and water holes for the animals to come to. All to soon, and after a visit to the first aid room for me, when an Aloe Vera plant sliced open a small cut on my leg, which became a big attraction to African wildlife, but was wonderfully tended by Nurse, we had to get back into the jeeps and on our way back to Nairobi. We made use of the Somak lounge again and headed to the airport for our journey home. We really were so lucky, we had all shared a lovely experience; we had fitted so much into a really small amount of time, and knew that we had made the most of every minute. Its taken me ages to write my Blog (Sorry Viv), but I did manage to break my leg on return… but as I have put all of these adventures together I know I was given a really special chance to experience some African Magic. A huge thank you goes to Amanda for her time and friendship, also to Somak, who sure know how to put itineraries together! All the people who took the time to show us their hotels and lodges and homes, we certainly shared a time we will never forget.
We love helping people to plan their holidays and adventures here at Cannon. We believe that the Internet is a wonderful tool, but it can’t listen to you, or talk to you in the way we can. So come in and meet us, the kettles always on, and if your really lucky I wont be making the tea, as they say it doesn’t taste very good!! No matter where you want to go, let us help you to plan your adventure.
Geraldine
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